S&W MODEL 2 ARMY

I was worried about this model from the past. But I spent it with there not being an encounter to purchase.
I finally purchased an encounter kit at an opportunity.
Ryoma Sakamoto seems to have used it. I was interested what kind of thing it was and purchased it. It is an old model, and a board spring is used for main springs.
It is a model of the old times, but something feels fresh when I see only a coil spring in a recent model.
It is for the greatest characteristic of this model to be barrel splashes of mud advance method not a top break.
A lock comes off by reducing a barrel latch in the side before trigger, and an upper course can bend a barrel.
There is a cylinder stop in the frame upper part likewise, too.
It becomes rear site and a part of a combined use.
Because it is a thing of the old times, a hammer beats a rim of a cart.
An inner part of a cart is not be a model letting I beat a rim and catch fire.
Exchange of a cart achieves a barrel and pulls out a cylinder forward and changes a cart.The person who appeared in bottom of a barrel considered it to be a cylinder pin from the past, but, in fact, it was ejecter pin.
I stuck this ejecter-pin from a cylinder front part and came to take out a cart by one.
Because this is a model gun, there is Insert in cylinde and cannot stick it into cylinder.
I did strange misunderstanding.
This is an interesting design.
The upper part of the hammer nose comes in contact with the rear sight when the hammer is cocked and then, when the hammer is down, the rear sight jumps up for an instant.
It is necessary to put up rear sight to let you remove cylinder stop with the hammer cocked.
I am curious, when the hammer falls,why the cylinder does not open when the gun is fired? But it seems to be a brave man at the time of firing! (for an instant!)
I used aluminum black, and blueing did this model this time.
As for this model, density of a particle did not seem to be uniform, and the surface was not in a smooth condition immediately.And a state to be dyed has begun to be stained with an irregularity.
I considered the last finish state to be a problem of ability, but I compared it with other models for some reason and did not change uniformly.
As the zinc parts of this model looks plated with copper on top, I tried removing and bluing the surface irregularity, but it didn’t work.
Though it can be blued if you make the zinc surface completely exposed, this model is good enough when untouched. So, it will be better if you remove the unnatural irregularity with a compound or something.

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I have taken a photograph with a sword that I was old.
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